Wednesday, February 27, 2008

Chillin in Chile

Ahhhh, just how I wanted to spend my last bit of time in South America. Sitting on the beach with a good book watching the cute Chileno lifeguards run around.
Chile surly has the most confusing conversion rate, at 474pesos/$CAN. It makes me feel like im spending heaps more than I really am, with surfing lessons costing $10,000, a night at the hostel $5,500, and a bottle of water $500.
I was quite confused walking along the beach, seeing sign after sign with a picture of the beach, and an arrow pointing away from the beach. I thought, ´why, some hooligan has gone and turned all the signs around!¨ On closer inspection... the photo was not of a wave, but a tsunami and read: Evacuation route. I find myself subconsiously glancing toward the sea every now and then... just to be sure.
Im soon off to see if I can still stand up on a surfboard.

"lifes adventures are the verses adn choruses of your unique sone, and when its over, you are dead" -Jimmy Buffett

Saturday, February 23, 2008

After the worst case of the 24hr flu that I have ever had... I decided that a 4hr hike to Frey for a competition was perhaps not on the top of my list of things to do. Instead, Jonathan, the Frenchie I have been traveling with, and I teamed up with 3 more Frenchies to head to another climbing area close to Bariloche. The cliff was a 30second walk from the tents, and we were right beside a beautiful lake with a view of the mountains.
We didnt do to much climbing, other than flailing on the hardest 7a I have ever laid a hand on. The camping was nice tho, and we perfected back-coutry bread and Pizza making.
After returning to Barioche, we packed up and headed to El Bolson. (Two hours south... even though I really should have been heading north, as I have over 60hrs of bus to Lima, where I fly home from... oh well). El Bolson is a huge hippie town, where we did a quick hike to some waterfalls, and rocked out to a local band playing Bob Marley and Jimmi Hendrics!! Sweet.
Im in Mendoza now, feeling fairly unmotivated to do much of anything... so Im off to Chile to chill on the beach... and do nothing. Its about a 24hr bus ride, but I have gotten used to these marathon busses.. and they go by in no time.

See everyone in two weeks!!! I cant believe its almost been 7months already! Phew.

Tuesday, February 12, 2008

excited for...

New things, a good bed, good food, good kharma, ice cream, and a bit of partying!

After a month in Valle Encantado, I feel it is time to move on. I will miss the lazy, easy going Valle, but am psyched for new things.
I plan on relaxing in Bariloche for a few days as my shoulder is acting up a bit, and then heading to Frey to try and convince someone to take me trad climbing. (As I have no gear). I might even compete in a fun little top rope comp they are hosting... mostly because I hear there is free beer...
Im excited to have a good bed after a month on a 5$ sleeping pad. There is even a little bouldering wall at the hostel! (And a big slide... woooooooo)
I can´t wait to get some good Argentine beef, and wine in my belly. Im a little tired of instant rice and fake flavour. (I know, poor me)
Too pass on some good kharma, the little blow up boat (nesesary for getting to Valle) that was given to me has been handed off to some other climbers here at the hostel.

suerte

Wednesday, February 6, 2008

esta es la vida

This is the life
Eat, Climb, Swim, Siesta, Eat, Climb, Eat, Sleep.

Its so good to be climbing again. Its been over two years since I have climbed this much and it feels great. My strength is comming back, and I remember why I love this sport so much.
The forest is a little lonely without Liz, but it is full of wonderful people.
Now much else is new. It has gotten too hot to climb all day, so we take a nice siesta between 3 and 7 to cool off in the river, read, or sleep.
I have been adopted by various people in the campground, and so am doing alright without a stove. I have replaced my sketchy 20$ tent with an actual tent, and am much happier at night. Although it hasnt really rained since I have been here... I can sleep better at night knowing that if it does, Ill stay dry. The old tent (which looks like a childs circus tent) had been donated to another climber who has been sleeping in the dirt.

I have another two weeks in Valle Encantado before I head up to Mendoza to climb with a girl that I met here.

beso (kiss)

stace

Tuesday, February 5, 2008

Photos


Welcome to Valle Encantado!!!!
Climbing
Deep water solo
Stacey playing medic for broken footed liz.

(All Photos from Liz Allen´s Facebook!!!)

Sunday, January 27, 2008

Back to the Forest

After a final visit to the hospital, for a second opinion and an old school cast, everything has gone off without a hitch.

Liz´s father offered to pay for a taxi to take me out to gather up all of Liz´s things, however the manager at the hotel decided he would be a huge help and drive me out for a lower price. I arrived at camp and within about 5min, I had 6 or 7 people helping me gather all of Liz´s things up. I was then swiftly shuttled across the river and driven back into town.

Liz and I enjoyed a lovely mexican dinner last night (although my stomach is not so used to such food, and is quite angry at me this morning... too used to granola and quinua is guess), and rose early to get to the airport.

Already having a flight from BsAs to NYC, Liz was a little worried about not getting a flight out of Bariloche. She put on the water works, and got on the first flight out.

Im currently wasting time in Bariloche... yet again... waiting for my bus back out to the forest. I decided to skip out on hitch hiking. I plan on staying here for about another two weeks, and then heading north to Mendosa were I hear there is also some good climbing!

AMOR!!

Saturday, January 26, 2008

Town Day(s)...?

Well, after a few very relaxing, enjoyable climbing days in the enchanted Valley Liz and I are stuck in town.
Yeasterday we had a nice thunder storm while we were climibng and hid in a cave while it blew over. It was actually nice for things to cool off a little. Sweating on warmups is not so much fun. Liz lead her first 11a, which she claimed was her life goal... woot woot!! (I think she´ll have to aim a little higher since she hasnt been climbing that long) Anyways, after a good send she was feeling awesome and jumped on another 5.11. She took about a 5m fall and landed funky on her foot. I was sure I heard a crack, but didnt want to scare her, and wasnt sure if it was just gear hitting the rock. We rounded up a few boys to piggy back Liz down to the water so she could stick her foot in the freezing water.
One of the climbers in camp is a Dr. but unfotunatly he was on a town day. I used my two years of HKIN to determine that something was seriously wrong, and was finally able to convince Liz we needed to go to Bailoche to get it checked out. We ran into some luck when some Brasilians offered us a ride because they were headed in anyways.
I have always considered Argentina to be very developed... untill we stepped into the waiting room at the hospital. The walls were all falling apart and everything looked very old and dirty. We waited about two hours without talking to anyone. All of a sudden all the moms started getting angry (Liz was obviously in tons of pain, writhering around in her seat trying to get comfortable), and banging on the door telling the doctors to take her it. It worked and they wheeled Liz away.
I was called in about 30min later, and arrived into a room with a very druggen Liz who smiled up at me with her eyes half open and sheepisly said, ¨two fractures... they say i need surgery, but I sure as hell gettin it here¨. Must have been some good drugs!!!
Our climbing Dr. friend ran into the Brasilians in town, and came to talk to the Drs, and explain in english what was going on. Liz speaks spanish, but I dont think the drugs were helping.
We returned to the hospital this morning to get Liz all casted up, and are just waiting for the pharmacy to open so I can go pick up some crutches and drugs for her.
Then, I have a mission back to camp (which is quite frustrating to get to without a car... usually involving hitchhiking) to pack up all of Liz´s stuff and get back to help her get to the airport to fly home where she has insurance.

SO.... thats my news for now!! Its all every exciting dont you think? Liz and I had made huge plans to go down south for some bouldering and to watch (and maybe compete) in a big bouldering comp. Im sad that our time together has been cut short, but glad that Liz is not having any problems getting home.

Hope everyone is doing well!!!

LOVE

Monday, January 21, 2008

Loving Life!!

Valle Encantado is... well just might be one of the best places on earth!

I wake up in the morning, take a few steps to the river to spash my face with some fresh mountain water. The climbing is a 5min walk from my tent. The only way to get to the camping and the climbing is by floating across the river in little inflatable boats (which is really funny to watch... there is usually one big boat full with people, draging a few little boats full of gear).

I have been hanging out with a really cool girl from New York. We are both here solita (by our little selves) and have since bonded and climb together all the time. There are about 35 people camped by the river. Our little international village consists of brazilians, frenchies, Agrentinans, Liz and Me.

Argentinas party hard, so we usually get up just before noon (and still have about 11hrs of sun) eat breakfast, climb untill 2, chill for a bit, then climb untill 8. Liz and I eat right away, but the Argentinians start thinking about eating and cooking close to midnight. Then the wine comes out, and its not uncommon for more cooking to start at 3 in the morning. Its gunna be hard to get out of this routine!

I have managed to muck up my neck nicely. I wont spill all the details, but it involved Lix and I in a hammok, a few bottle of wine, someone stealing my sandles and getting tackled by a huge dude from brasil. Might need a few rest days for this on.

The climbing here is a bit sharp, but amazing. There are about 100 routes, all sport, and a few multi pitch routes. The views are also amazing. Basically you should all be here right now!!

Friday, January 11, 2008

To the wilderness!!!

Alright! If all goes well, Ill be out in Valle Encontado for a few weeks and you wont hear from me for awhile!

I spent yeasterday in seach of food that does not require cooking, and wont go bad. Its going to be lots of tuna and crackers for me, a few energy bars, and more crackers... yum. I just hope I run into some friendly people that wont mind cooking me up some hot water once and while!

Ciao for now!!

Thursday, January 10, 2008

Kharma

It got me!

Just for trying to make you all so jealous, I arrived to lots of cold rain, and not a single hostel open in town (trust me, I tried all of them). About two hours later I settled for a hotel that is way out of my price range, and decided to spoil myself and stay a few nights before I head off to live in the woods. I even have a bathtub!! Luxury.

Bariloche is Banff, but the size of Canmore. The difference in temperature is a little shocking. I went from 40degrees, to being able to see my breath in less than 24hrs.

I might need to get a better sleeping bag... :)

Tuesday, January 8, 2008

Off to Bariloche

Just to make you all a little jealous, this is where Im headed tonight. (You dont have to be jealous of the 22hr bus ride).

I spent yeasterday in search of dirt cheep camping gear, since this place is 70km outside of Bariloche and I plan to stay for awhile. I managed to find a tent, and sleeping bag, and a sleeping pad for less than 50$ (total). I just hope there is no rain... I dont think my 20$ tent is very waterproof !!! :)


(Photo from www.andescross.com )

Hope all is well!!



Suerte!! (Luck)

Sunday, January 6, 2008

TOO HOT

Well, we never did get much sun in Uruguay... but Im sure getting my fair share now. Its been over 35 the past week. Im luckey if it gets down to 20... then you can get some sleep.

Buenoes Aires is a magical city! I walked out of a restaurant one night to find over a hundred people dancing to the mesmarizing rythem of 60 drummers. The city is just alive with music! Tango dancers dance to random string bands on the side of the road and in parks. Brings a smile to my face.

I am currently in the University city of Cordoba. I have been spending my time with some other travelers on little day trips hiking and such. Today however, I am content to be sitting in the airconditioned TV room at the hostel doing nothing at all. It feels good.

In a few days I am headed south to cooler Bariloche to meet up with some people I have met along my travles to do some climbing. I have a bit of "work" to do though, finding some camping gear, as there is not much close to the clifs, and everyone just camps in the forest.

If all goes well I will stay there for about a month, and the start on a grewling journy back north to lima to fly home in March. (Moms happy about that one)

hows everyone enjoying the cold up north... I have to say Im a little jealous!

love!!!

(sorry, the spell check is not working... and my english seems to get worse as my spanish gets better... too much spanglish!!!)